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2015-2020 Mustang SR Performance Sport Lowering Springs Review & Install

2015-2020 Mustang SR Performance Sport Lowering Springs Review & Install


At just north of 120 bucks, the SR Performance
Sport Lowering Springs that we have here are gonna be one of the most affordable ways to
lower your non-MagneRide equipped 2015 and Newer V6, GT, or EcoBoost on the site. Now, in addition to being very budget-friendly,
these progressive/linear rate lowering springs are gonna lower your car 1.2 inches up front
and just about an inch in the rear for all fastbacks and 1.2 inches in the rear for all
convertibles making for a very aggressive stance once installed. Now, speaking of which, the site does call
this a soft three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter here, but if you have
access to some basic hand tools along with a lift or jack and jack stands and a spring
compressor, you should be able to bang this one out in a few hours from start to finish. As always, guys, hang with me till the very
end of the video and we’ll show you how it’s done. So the sport springs here from SR Performance
are kind of a twist on the OG SR Performance lowering springs, which by the way continue
to be the most popular currently on the site. Now, the biggest difference I’d say between
the sport version that we have here and the original SR springs is gonna be the drop. Again, you’re getting a little bit more of
a drop up front, roughly a quarter of an inch extra and depending on your model the rear
drop will be about an inch for all fastback cars, a little bit more for the convertibles
out there, 1.2 inches because of the added weight. And while I know it might not sound like a
huge difference in drop, believe me, guys, that extra quarter of an inch or so really
does contribute to a more aggressive stance as some of our customer submitted images have
shown on the product page. So again, feel free to check those out if
you haven’t done so already. But aside from the drop, what’s also interesting
about these particular sport springs is the fact that you’re getting a progressive spring
for your front option but with a linear spring for the rears. Now, the front spring, that rate is gonna
start at right around 169 pounds while the rear is a linear or standard 711 pounds. Now, I like the standard or linear springs
for the rear because should help increase traction, reduce wheel hop because you’re
getting a very consistent rate with the springs. Now, this will also be a benefit to the guys
or gals out there who might do a little bit of drag racing with their car as the lighter
front springs paired up with the linear spring is something you do see with a lot of drag
racing specific springs in the category. Now the lower drop of the sport springs will
certainly help lower the center of gravity of your ride, which inherently helps your
car handle a little bit better while the unique spring rate will help improve things like
squat under hard acceleration and reduce excessive dive under hard braking. Now, you have to keep in mind here again,
guys, that the SR Performance springs are not gonna be compatible with the MagneRide
equipped cars such as those Performance Pack 1 or 2 GTs that do come with the MagneRide
shocks if you’ve optioned it out or even the GT350 cars as a drop is gonna be a little
excessive for those dampers. Now, before we get into the install, I always
like to remind you guys that these springs are gonna clear the factory wheel and tire
combination without rubbing, along with some of our preconfigured wheel entire kits that
we do offer on the site for your S550. So, be sure to check some of those out on
the site as well if you haven’t done so already and are browsing for a new set of shoes. But now let’s switch gears as promised, guys,
and get into that installation. And again, the site is gonna call this a soft
three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. Personally, I think that’s a bit much, but
if you’ve never done springs before then it certainly will be a new experience, especially
with the IRS equipped S550. Either way to give you a better idea of what
you’re up for, here is that detailed walkthrough along with a quick tool breakdown. Tools required for this install: 17-millimeter
wrench, 3/8 drive, a good socket set ranging from 13-millimeter up to 21, various extensions,
a 3/8-inch impact, a half-inch impact, a ball peen hammer, and a push pin removal tool. All right. To get started, we need to remove our wheels
and tires. You can perform this job on the ground, just
use a good jack and a good set of jack stands. All right. What we’re gonna do first is remove our shock. Now, these are 18-millimeter bolts. You can use a regular socket, I just like
my air impact. And we’re gonna bring the car up even more,
support our lower subframe and get the bottom bolts out of here because the next step is
to lower our subframe. All right. Next step is to remove these two 15-millimeter
bolts holding the lower shock mount in. Now, I’m gonna use my other hand to support
the top of this shock just so it doesn’t fall. Now, with that out, we can pull our shock. All right. Our next step is to lower our rear subframe. Now, we have to get these two 13-millimeter
bolts out of the way to access this 21 in the front and then there’s another one in
the back. We’re gonna do this side by side. So, we can have the other two rear subframe
bolts in and lower this side to get our spring out. You’ll don’t have to take these out all the way. All right. So, with our two 13-millimeter bolts out of
the way, again, our rear subframe is supported with a jack stand. I had to switch to my half-inch impact gun
to get this rear subframe bolt out. It is a 21-millimeter. So, we are gonna remove this completely and
we’re just gonna let this bracket hang right there. All right, guys. Now, we’re after the rear subframe bolt, it’s
right behind the spring. Key note here is when you undo this, you’re
gonna have some separation between the subframe and the body right here. As long as your jack stand has a lot of that
support, you’re not gonna see too much movement. We’re gonna be lowering this down slowly to
gain some access to this spring here. We’re gonna remove this bolt completely too. So, now that we have our rear subframe bolts
out, we’re gonna be lowering it next. We don’t wanna put too much strain on these
brake lines. We’re gonna take a 13-millimeter socket, take
out this brake bracket here and that’ll give us a little extra clearance and travel. All right. Now, I’m carefully lowering my subframe on
the driver side just enough that I can get that spring out and put my new one in. All right. With our subframe bolts out of the way, we
can remove this spring. Just got to pull down on your brake a little
bit, save this isolator. Get your spring out of the way. All right. So, this is the bottom isolator. You can see this little ridge here, this will
go into the pocket here and you’ll actually feel it stop. Now, the top isolator, again, you’re gonna
have that little pocket there. Just pretty much thread this on and it will
go where it needs to go. Now, we’re gonna drop this spring in the way
the old one came out. Be careful with your speed sensor line. This should go in a little easier than the
one that came out because, again, this is a lowering spring. Now, we’re gonna clock our spring in there
so that the bottom of the coil hits that pocket we were talking about. Now, we can start jacking up on our subframe and getting this spring back into its place. Now, what I’m doing now is making sure my
bolt holes are lining up for my rear subframe mounts. All right. Now, I’m just gonna start these bolts by hand
and then use my impact later on them. It’s very important to torque these back down. Now, you may notice I did take my bracket
off just to gain a little bit extra clearance. That’s fine. You can complete this job without doing that,
but I did have to gain a little extra room. So, we’re gonna start those and start this
bolt as well. All right. Now, we’re going to use our 13-millimeter
socket and tighten up these bracket bolts. Then we’re gonna switch to a half-inch and
get these subframe mounts. All right, guys. Now, we’re gonna put our bolt back in our
brake line bracket. This is the small 13-millimeter bolt. All right. So, with this kit, we are gonna reuse our
factory shocks. Now, I’m gonna slide these back into place
just behind our half shaft here and drop it down and just start our 15-millimeter bolts
on the bottom. Make sure they go in right. I’m gonna slide this underneath here to jack
up on our lower control arm to bring our shock into place. All right. So, what I’m gonna do now is get our shock
into place. I’m gonna use my body weight on the top of
this control arm just to bring it down past those studs there, move it over a little bit that way I can get my bolts started. All right. Now, everything you just saw on this side,
we’re gonna replicate on the other side and then move to the front. All right, guys. Moving to the front, we are gonna be removing
our calipers. This is the upgraded Performance Package with
the Brembos, so your brakes may look a little different. But I have a 15-millimeter socket and we’re
gonna be taking off the whole caliper bracket and we’re gonna be hanging it out of the way
with a bungee cord. All right. Now, I have my one bolt still in there, I’m
gonna remove that now, and don’t let this caliper fall. Then we’re just gonna pull it off of the brake
rotor like that. Gonna take our bungee cord and bungee this
out of the way or right on the K-member right here. All right. Now, I’m gonna take a push pin removal tool
and separate our wheel speed sensor from our strut. Now, it is connected to two places, one is
on the strut here and then one is on the bottom of the strut behind the brake rotor right
here. So, I’m just gonna pull those out, set that
off to the side. Our next step is to get our sway bar end link
off. It is an 18-millimeter nut on the front and you
can get a 17-millimeter wrench on the back to hold it from spinning. All right. Again, I have a 17-millimeter wrench on the
backside, keeping it from spinning. All right. Now, save this nut we’re gonna be reusing
that and we can take our sway bar end link and take that out of the way. So, I’m gonna remove this rotor just so you
can get a better view of what we’re doing next. All right. So, I’m gonna take my big 24-millimeter impact
and take these nuts off. Now, you don’t have to worry about the head
of this, I’ll show you what it looks like when you take it off. Next thing we’re gonna do is get either a
ball peen hammer or a mallet, and we’re actually going to hit the top of this. We’re gonna hit the top of these bolts. The reason why I’m putting my nuts back on
is to protect my threads and so we have a flat surface to hit. All right. So, I have my hammer, I’m just gonna tap on
both of them until they come out. I’m actually gonna leave one of these in here
because our last step is to remove our nuts and I don’t want this falling just completely
out. So, when I take this out, you can see these
splines or these neurals, they actually get captured in there and prevent the bolt
from spinning. That’s why you only need one nut or one socket
to complete this step. All right, I’m gonna remove this nut but leave
this bolt in here, so that’s gonna be one of the last ones we have to pull, it’s just
sitting right in there. Now, we can lower the vehicle down and get
our nuts off the top of the strut. All right. So, we’re gonna pop our hood, get it supported. Now, what we’re after now are these nuts on
top of our strut. All right. Now, with a 15-millimeter socket, we’re going
to remove these nuts. Now, I’m going to leave this one with about
one or two threads remaining, take it off and then thread it on just like that. You can start to see the strut actually falling. Watch this gap. All right. Completely remove that nut. All right. This is where it kind of gets tricky. We’re gonna lift up on the spindle here, pull
out our bolt and let this just fall a little bit. Make sure it doesn’t hit the ground. But we have that separate now. Now, I’m gonna grab the bottom of the strut
and the top. I’m gonna take this nut off and carefully
remove our factory strut. All right. Now, in our shop, we have a really nice wall
mounted spring compressor. If you don’t have one, you can run down to
your local auto parts store and get the two piece that bolts onto the side and you can
actually compress it, but be extremely careful. I’ll go over some safety tips when we get
over there. All right. So, now we moved over to our spring compressor. Again, if you have a rental from a auto parts
store, you’re gonna have the ones that attach to the sides. For this one, we are going on the spring on
the bottom here and then we’re attaching the top to our top hat. Now, what this will allow us to do is crank
down slowly on the top here until you see a little bit of movement and what that will
do is allow us to remove that top nut. All right. So, I’m gonna take my 21-millimeter socket
and take this nut off. All right. So, I’m gonna compress this spring a little
bit more and I’m gonna take this 21-millimeter nut off. So, another thing to note is the spring compressor
is compressing the top hat and the spring together. So, I have to catch this strut when I take
that nut off. All right. Now, we’re gonna release the tension off this
spring and top hat. We are gonna be reusing our top hat and top
rubber isolator. All right. Now with our rubber isolator and our top hat
installed on our new spring, we’re gonna slide this into the compressor and we’re going to
make sure it is even and where we want it to be on that press. Actually, that is nice and flat and level. And we’re gonna bring the compressor down
onto the top hat. You don’t have to set this right now, you
can set that while it’s on the car. Just get these studs into the top strut mount
and you can move this whole strut assembly around to find that exact spot. I’m gonna pull these out a little bit, continue
to lower our compressor. I’m gonna start compressing this down. All right. So, what I’m doing now is test fitting my
strut assembly to my new coil. Looks like I need to compress this just a
little bit more to make it seat where I want it to. Bring this down again, couple more cranks. Now, we’re gonna put this back through, making
sure our isolator captures the bottom of that spring just like that. We have a couple of threads showing for our
nut on the top, we’re just gonna start that. Now, I’m gonna compress it just a little bit
more. They have some more threads exposed, then
we’ll go ahead and tighten it down. So, using our 21-millimeter socket and tighten
this down. I’m actually gonna release some of the pressure
to put some pressure on the backside of that nut. All right. Just like that. Then we’ll get our final torque in a second. Just want a little more thread showing than
that. Now, we’re going to release the tension on
this spring and top hat and get this out of the way and do our other front. All right. And there’s your new coil, let’s go get this
installed in the car. All right. So, now that you have your new spring and
your old strut assembled, I’m gonna take one of these nuts, I’m gonna insert this into
the strut tower. So, I have, again, I have one of those nuts
in my hand. I am just making sure my threads are going
through nice and I’m going to put one of these nuts on. You can even put another one on the back if
you want. So, we’re just gonna put these on there to
hold that, then we’re gonna go back down to here. Grab our two big splined bolts, bring our
spindle back into place. Again, you can move this around to get that
in the exact position you need it to go in order to get your bolts back through. Now, the bolts go from the front. And don’t worry about these splines, what
we’re gonna do is tap this just a little bit more and when you put that nut on it’s going
to drill it altogether and seat in real nicely. So, we need to kick this out a little bit. Put that bolt in, get our hammer. Just give it a couple of taps till it seats
flat against that. Put our nuts back on that. Now, this is a 24-millimeter nut, can get
our socket and our impact and make these nice and tight. Watch this distance right here when you hit
it with the impact. Drills that bolt in nicely. Now, we’re gonna go back up to the top and
tighten down those nuts for the strut. All right, we’re gonna put our other nut back
on and then tighten all these down. All right. Now, after you’re done with that, we are going
to go back underneath, reconnect our sway bar end link, put our back on rotor, and our
caliper bracket. All right. Now, we’re gonna swing our sway bar end link
back into place. Put our 18-millimeter nut on as far as we
can get it. All right. So, it’s spinning now, we’re gonna take our
17-mil and we’re gonna put it on the backside to stop it from spinning. Then we have our 18-millimeter deep socket. Make that nice and tight, it’s not going anywhere. While you’re in here, you can reconnect your
wheel speed sensor to your strut and your spindle there. Now, let’s get our rotor on and our caliper
back into place. All right. I’m gonna slip this rotor on. All right. Now, I have my bolts for my caliber bracket
in my hand, I’m gonna undo my safety strap here that I had. These Brembos are a lot heavier than the standard
Mustang brakes. Get that out of there, make sure our pads
are seated correctly, which it looks like they are. Slip this past the rotor and line up our mounting
holes for our bolts and get these started. All right. So, I’m just hand tightening these 15-millimeter
bolts. Gonna take my socket here. All right, guys. That’s gonna wrap up my install of these SR
Performance Lowering Springs for this S550 Mustang. For more installs and products like this,
keep it here at americanmuscle.com.

Comments (4)

  1. Shop these SR Performance Sport Lowering Springs: https://muscle.am/2EU29ru

    SUBSCRIBE at http://www.youtube.com/americanmusclevideos

  2. So they moved to the middle of nowhere now, the 3 day shipping takes over a week, added taxes to sales, and their open box items are all defective parts missing key components..? company is going downhill…

  3. Why is everything with SR so cheap? Is it bad quality?

  4. Nice! Good review!

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