How To Know When Your Shoes Need To Be Resoled | Kirby Allison

How To Know When Your Shoes Need To Be Resoled | Kirby Allison

Hi I’m Kirby Allison and we love to help
the well-dressed take care of their wardrobes. In today’s video I’m going to
show you the three ways to tell whether or not your shoes need to be resoled. If
you have any questions or comments during this video please ask them in the
comment section below. I try to get back to as many comments and questions as
possible. Proper care of your dress shoes can dramatically extend their lifetime.
With regular resoling and regular polishing, you can extend the life of
your shoes by decades ensuring that they only get better with wear and become
more personalized for you. In the hands of an experienced craftsman, a resoling
job can not only extend the life of the shoe but also elevate the quality of the
finish well-made dress shoes are made with the intention to be resoled so that
you can get years if not decades of great wear out of a pair of shoes. Just
like with your car, every dress shoe ultimately needs the outsoles replaced
whenever they’ve become worn. In this video I’m gonna show you the three
simple ways to tell whether or not your shoes need to be resoled. With the
resoling done by a qualified cobbler like one from our Kirby Allison Resoling Repair Program, you can trust that your shoes are being resoled with the finest
materials and craftsmanship available anywhere. These materials and
craftsmanship will ensure that your shoes last longer, look better, and feel
better whenever you wear them. Today I have a pair of black Allen Edmonds Fifth
Avenue’s that have come in for our resoling program. There’s three simple
ways to tell whether or not a shoe needs to be resoled. First and the most
important is you turn your shoe upside down and hold the toe and then run your
finger over the center of the outsole what you’re looking for is any type of
wrinkling or softness in the outsole itself a proper outsole that has not
outlived its lifetime should be firm to the touch and not push in as you can
see this shoe has a very soft outsole. It’s time to have them resoled. Second, any type of visible hole on the outsole itself means that you’ve gone way beyond
the lifetime of this outsole if you wear your shoes too long with the hole you
can actually do permanent damage to your shoe if they get wet so if you have any
visible holes and your outsole you need to immediately send them in to a cobbler
to be retracted third always inspect the perimeter of the outsole to ensure that
you haven’t worn through the outsole and into the welt if you see any type of
welt stitching exposed that means that you’re wearing through the outsole into
the welt and that these outsoles need to be replaced immediately the problem
if you wear through the outsole into the welt is that if you wear too far through
the weld the shoes either are unable to be repaired or have to undergo a very
extensive rewelting in order to allow them to be resoled on
the right shoe of these Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue’s you can see that whenever
I turn them over and run my thumb across the outsole that we still have
indentation and again this sponginess or this softness means that you’re reaching
the inital lifetime of these out soles now there’s no visible holes which is
good but you can see that at the toe we’re beginning to wear through the
outsole and into the welt and you can see that because the welt stitches have
actually been broken on the outsole these shoes need to be resoled every pair
of shoes that goes through our Kirby Allison shoe resoling and repair service
receives much more than just new out soles it’s almost a full refurbishment or a full recrafting of the shoe we’re removing
the outsole replacing the interior cork filling with new cork filling resoling
the shoe paying careful attention to match as closely as possible those
originals welt holes then putting new JR Rendenbock combination heels and lastly
every pair of shoes receives a new pair of kirby allison wellington shoe laces
and a full shoe shine at the end of the process to ensure that you receive your
shoes back looking and absolutely in condition these allen edmonds if you
take a look at the uppers are actually an fantastic condition they just need to
be resoled and if you don’t pay attention to the outsoles and replace those
whenever they need to be replaced you can actually destroy a perfectly fine
pair of shoes with regular resoling and especially polishing you can make a pair
of such as these allen edmonds Fifth Avenue’s easily last decades if you’re
someone that is prone to wear through the toes of your shoes into the weld you
can actually outfit a pair of shoes during our Kirby Allison shoe repair
service with brass or steel toe plates that help protect the tip of the shoes
from being worn if you enjoyed this video give us a thumbs up and please
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new videos if you have any questions or comments about anything we discussed on
this video please ask them in the comment section below and of course
please visit hangar project comm where we have the largest most comprehensive
collection of luxury garment care and shoe care accessories in the world as
well as many other incredible products for the well-dressed and while you are
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on our YouTube channel I’m Kirby Allison and we love to help the well-dressed
take care of their wardrobes

Comments (36)

  1. Very much looking forward to this one Kirby.

  2. Dear Mr Allison,

    IMHO it will be a very popular video! In my city in wintertime all the streets are watered and sprinkled with anti-ice agents. Those agents are extremely aggressive to the shoes, not to mention natural wear.

  3. Always a wealth of information. Thanks Kirby

  4. Thanks very much for the info, I've been curious about this.

  5. Wonderful, thank you Kirby, will we be seeing a video soon of this process in action? I see you showed a few clips, would be lovely to see an in depth video. Best wishes, Ian.

  6. Will this service be able to resole a pair of Edward Greens that has a bombe waist or a much narrow than normal waist like you would see on an Allen Edmonds?
    And during the resoling process, if needed, do you re-welt the shoe as well?

  7. I have a question. What would be the difference between the AE Recrafting service and the one that you offer? Thanks for this helpful video.

  8. Very informative video! As a shoe cobbler, I can’t recommend enough that folks bring in their shoes to be re-soled or for new heel pads BEFORE they get too bad. Often times, if the damage is too bad, it can’t be fixed. Keep your uppers in good shape with routine conditioning, as Kirby has so often stated, and periodically check the your heel pads and soles. ??

  9. So what's the estimated cost and where would I be sending my shoes for the KA HP shoe job? Texas??

  10. This service that you now offer is awesome!! So cool that you now offer this! Hope it turns out to be a great success for you and everyone who utilized it!!

  11. Great video idea!
    That brass/steel toe cap is pretty cool!

  12. Would it mean if i have a topy added on,i will never ever need resole,but instead just get it replaced?

  13. NYC lore has it that Michael Bloomberg wore the same two pairs of shoes for his entire 12-year stint as mayor. Care gives longevity.

  14. Another question that i have,is that if my dress shoes are too tight can they be resoled to be looser,and if so,by how much?

  15. #1.. When you cross your legs and you can see your big toe sticking out the bottom.

  16. Nice tie. Good information.

  17. Can you please follow up and show the post recrafting of these shoes? Or were the other photos the finished product?

  18. What are your thoughts on companies like Crockett & Jones who seem to insist on fitting a new welt every time you send a pair of shoes back in? Has always seemed to me that this would shorten the life of the shoes terribly. Surely replacing the welt only when it absolutely cannot be stitched to a fresh sole is best? Seems that is your approach here, even using original holes where possible to extend the life of the welt.

    Crockett actually specific that a pair of shoes can only be re-soled 4-5 times, and I imagine this is because they're fundamentally damaging the insole and upper every time they stitch on a new welt!

  19. The toe taps and Saphir polish made the difference for me between an AE recrafting and hanger project resoling. I wear through toes well before the rest of the sole

  20. Hi,kirby thanks for sharing this story with us.I love it.What is the cost of an average resole of a pair shoes.Thanks .

  21. Educational as usual. =)

  22. Are the indications for shoes with dainite rubber soles the same? I understand my fashion choice of dainite isn't the best, but I do a considerable amount of walking to work each day in all different weather conditions so I felt dainite soles were my best option. Thanks for any information you can provide and keep up the fantastic work.

  23. Hi, Can you have a video about the different type of soles you can attach to a shoe and their benefits?

  24. Your hands doesn´t look like you have ever resoled a shoe. Am I wrong.

  25. Kirby, great video. I have a pair of black oxford wingtips I will be reevaluating using your tips. One question: I've recently learned that some low end shoe makers will fake the look of goodyear welted shoes. How can one tell the difference?

  26. Hi Kirby, I have a question. When I get my shoes resoled with the JR soles, would you recommend me adding a tobi as well? When and why would you recommend adding a tobi on the soles? Also, when a tobi is completely worn out, do I need to send them back in for a new tobi, or I can continue to wear the shoe until the leather soles are worn out too?

  27. Hi, what do you think about rubber sole that covers and protect the outsole?

  28. Kirby, I love your videos and that the Hanger Project offers a recrafting program. I noticed that the cobbler uses a sheet of cork prior to attaching the sole, as opposed to a spreadable cork product. Is the sheet of cork better or worse than the alternatives.

  29. Are you able to smooth out wrinkles or creases to the upper ?

  30. Kirby, I have an older pair of Allen Edmonds loafer that the sole is starting to crack on the sides and is rock hard, is that a sign of needing a new sole or sole damage?! The bottom doesn’t feel soft but the outside edges where I would put edge dressing is rock hard and cracking. What do you think?!

  31. On a pair of shoes with an open channel stitch like an Allen Edmonds, how do you tell if your shoes fall under scenario 3?

  32. Hey I love your guys videos recently got a new job that requires the user of nice shoes and I've also just been buying more in general for casual use. I recently got a pair of Cole hand with a rubber sole because I stand in them for long periods of time so I thought rubber might be more comfortable for me. But I figured that when I get them restored I would love to get a quality job like this. Is this process possible for my Cole Hanna? Thanks

  33. Can you resoles allen edmonds that have dainite soles with JRs?

  34. 2:14 what kind of permanent damage?

  35. Do recommend getting less expensive shoe to be resoled?

  36. You can buy the heel plates from Ebay and put them on your self no need to pay anyone I always do it my self it's so fucking easy

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